Memphis: A Soulful Journey Through Music and Civil Rights

Welcome to Memphis, Tennessee — a city that vibrates with rhythm, resilience, and raw southern charm. Our three-day stay in this legendary birthplace of blues and rock ‘n’ roll was rich in musical history, soulful food, and unforgettable moments. Here’s our Memphis itinerary, including Beale Street, Sun Studio, National Civil Rights Museum, Stax Museum of American Soul Music and some deeply memorable encounters.

Day 1: Arrival and Soulful Beginnings

We caught an Uber from the Memphis airport to the Crowne Plaza Memphis Downtown, a comfortable and convenient hotel near the river and central attractions. After checking in our room was not ready so we walked over to the huge pyramid that houses the headquarters of Bass Pro. The store is massive inside the pyramid and there is an elevator to the top where there is a restaurant and a viewing platform that looks over Memphis and the Mississippi River. The cost the elevator was $8 per person, but we got free tickets from the manager.

We took an Uber back to the hotel and after putting our luggage away and freshening up, we hopped in another Uber to head straight for Beale Street.

Evening on Beale Street: We spent time walking up and down the length of Beale Street, taking in the buzzing neon, street performers, and pulsating music escaping from every bar and club. We decided to go into B.B. King’s Blues Club, for dinner and music.

Upon entry there is a $10 cover charge for the band. We were seated up on the balcony overlooking the stage. Drinks run about $10 and dinner menu items run $15-30. I ordered meatloaf that was a huge portion along with mashed potatoes, gravy, vegetables, onion rings and a bun for $22. We stayed for two full sets, enjoying a fantastic live band, great energy, and a delicious dinner with a view of the stage. The mix of food, music, and atmosphere made it a perfect welcome to Memphis.

Day 2: A Journey Through Rock ‘n’ Roll and Civil Rights

Sun Studio Tour ($20): We started the day by touring Sun Studio, where Howling Wolf, Big Momma Thorner, Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, and Jerry Lee Lewis began their careers. Our tour guide brought the space to life, sharing stories about Sam Phillips and the recording sessions that created rock ‘n’ roll. Standing on the very spot where Elvis recorded his first song was cool.

Sam Phillips did not like pop singing and Elvis was auditioning for Sam only because a friend of his said that he had to hear this guy. After a number of takes Sam went out for a smoke. The house band knew that signalled Sam was finished with the recording and with Elvis so they began to back up. Elvis was very agitated as he blown his big chance at becoming a recording star. He quickly paced around and around the room singing, “That’s Alright Momma” to himself. Sam had came back and heard him singing this old blues song and knew right there that he had something.

After the tour we took an Uber over to the National Civil Rights Museum. There were about 6 tour buses outside and the staff at the door confirmed it was very busy inside so we decided to walk over two blocks to the Arcade Restaurant, the oldest restaurant in Memphis and a favourite of Elvis Presley. It is a classic diner with great burgers and milkshakes and not to be missed.

National Civil Rights Museum ($18 for seniors): After lunch we walked back to this powerful museum located at the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. The exhibitions walk you through slavery, the Jim Crow era, civil rights protests, and Dr. King’s final days. It was deeply emotional, educational, and humbling. This museum alone is reason enough to come to Memphis.

From the museum we walked 20 minutes back to Beale Street and had an afternoon drink at Silky O’Sullivans where there are climbing goats and live music in the open courtyard. The audience was from all over the world and it is a great place for live music on a nice day.

At 4pm we walked over to the Peabody Hotel and watched the duck walk that happens twice a day. In the morning at 11am, the 5 ducks that live at the hotel in a Duck Palace on the roof come down in the elevator and walk the red carpet to the round pool and fountain in the middle of the hotel where they swim and frolic until 5pm when the leave the pool, walk the red carpet and take the elevator back up to their duck palace to have dinner and sleep.

We were there at 4:30pm and got a great spot right at the red theatre rope at the red carpet for a front row view of the spectacle. There is a very entertaining Duck Master complete with red coat and staff with a Mallard head who talks through the history of the duck walk going back to 1933. He engages all the audience and picks an honorary Duck Master from the crowd to lead the ducks under his supervision. The whole thing is lots of fun.

After the duck walk we went up to the roof to see the Duck Palace then walked a few blocks over to Gus’s Famous Chicken restaurant. The fried chicken is wonderful. A plate of 3 pieces, coleslaw and beans cost $15. It’s worth making a reservation or arriving early, as this spot can get very busy, especially with its popularity for takeout and dinner crowds. While we were there we saw at least 100 take-out orders delivered to the front counter for pick-up.

After dinner we walked a couple of blocks over to the Hyatt Centric that has a rooftop lounge where we sat outside and watched the sun set over the grand Mississippi River. From there we walked back to Beale Street and wandered the street until we went into the Rum Boogie Cafe and watched the Eric Hughes Band play some great Blues music. I found it amazing that there is not much traditional Blues music on Beale Street. It was mostly Soul music with just a smattering of Blues Music so I really enjoyed the band. Afterwards we caught an Uber back to our hotel.

Day 3: Gardens, Cemeteries, and Gospel

We began the day taking an Uber to the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, a landmark in music history. Founded in 1957, Stax Records became a powerhouse that shaped the sound of American soul music and launched the careers of icons like Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, and Booker T. & the M.G.’s. Its rich legacy is intertwined with the civil rights movement, making it a vital piece of Memphis’ musical heritage and a must-see for any music lover.

Close to the museum is the Elmwood Cemetery. I had seen in the Memphis Flyer, the free weekly entertainment flyer, that there was a performance at 1pm with a pianist and a tenor focussing on murder in the graveyard. We walked through a residential area about 20 minutes to the cemetery. There were about 100 people in attendance in the beautiful chapel with soaring windows overlooking the graveyard full of gothic statues and monuments with the grey clouds streaming past and the wind blowing through the trees. This Gothic Victorian cemetery turned out to be one of the most poignant and atmospheric stops on our trip. The tenor sang murder ballads from Bach, Schubert, and a couple of others and we got to meet them after the performance. They were thrilled that we were from Canada and had made an effort to see their performance which was world class.

A friendly couple that we met at the performance offered us a ride back downtown and dropped us off on the Riverwalk. We walked a ways along the Mississippi River then headed back to Beale Street where we went for an early dinner back at B.B. King’s and listened to a couple of sets by the house band who played great soul music.

When we came out of B.B. King’s Beale Street was packed with people and a Flash Dance started up with about 100 people taking part in this fun activity. We popped into a couple of other Honky Tonks before catching an Uber back to our hotel.

Essential Memphis: Sights, Bites & Blues

Must-See Attractions:

Sun Studio – Where rock was born
National Civil Rights Museum – Powerful and essential
Stax Museum – Soul, resistance, and rhythm
Peabody Hotel Ducks – Delightful tradition
Elmwood Cemetery – Haunting and beautiful

Best Eats:

Gus’s Fried Chicken – Iconic
Arcade Restaurant – Retro charm
B.B. King’s – Dinner + a show

Live Music & Honky Tonks:

Rum Boogie Café – True blues
Silky O’Sullivan’s – Unique atmosphere
Lafayette’s Music Room – Funky, off Beale

Ready to walk Beale Street or tour the halls where soul music was born? Book your Memphis stay now on Booking.com, Expedia, or Hotels.com.

Travel slow, listen deep, and let Memphis stir your soul.

Final Thoughts

Memphis is gritty, passionate, and full of stories that shaped modern music and civil rights. From murder ballads in a cemetery to blues riffs echoing through Beale Street, it delivered far more than we expected. We met travellers from England, Italy, and Germany — proof that Memphis draws those seeking authenticity and soul. We did not go into Elvis’ Graceland. I love Elvis’ music but did not want to pay $156 to see his house, clothes and cars.

Whether you’re here for Elvis, MLK, or the deep-fried chicken, this city has layers. Dig in slowly, and Memphis will move you.